Jeju Island Korea

Jeju Island is a volcanic island off the southeastern tip of South Korea. The main attraction on the island is Mt. Halla, or Hallasan. (San means mountain in Korean.) You can see the mountain from anywhere on the island, as it lies approximately in the center of the island. To the east is Sunrise Peak, which is the eastern most spot in Korea. There are magnificent falls and cliffs that offer breathtaking views of what can only be formed when lava hits sea water. Also not to be missed are the lava tube caves. Only one section is open to tourists as the caves are still changing, but Jeju Island is home to the longest lava tube in Asia. Among the other wonders that nature bestowed upon Jeju-do (Korean for Jeju Island), there are also man made spectacles that harmonize with the landscape.

When you are planning your trip please be aware that there is a "beach season" in Korea. It lasts from the end of June until the end of July. The beaches will close and you most likely not have any access to bathrooms or restaurants on the beach. I was there at the end of the season and it was not overrun with tourists. You can go to Jeju-do any time of the year, but if you want beaches wait until July.

Mt. Halla (Hallasan)

Mt.Halla is 1950 meters above sea level. There are four ways to get to the top, the route you take depends on your level of hiking experience and how long you wish to spend hiking. At the top of the mountain is Baengnokdam, or "white deer lake". Technically it is a crater lake. According to the brochure I got from the tourist booth when I landed, there are 1,800 species of plants on the mountain. It is a national park and a natural preserve, it was listed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2002 and a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007.

There are four trails on Mt. Halla, but only two of them take you to the summit. I recommend getting a map when you arrive, there is also a visitor center which has more detailed information about the trails. Eorimok and Yeongsil Trails go to Witse Oreum (an oreum is a hill that was formed when the volcano was erupting and the lava was trying to find alternative ways out due to the pressure under the rock. Witse Oreum is 1743 meters above sea level and the climb takes between 1.5 to 2 hours each way. These are recommended for beginners.

Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa take 4.5 to 5 hours to climb and are more advanced trails, but they do lead to the top. You should get to the park as early as possible to climb these trails. In the summer the sun is out quite late, but to be on the safe side, you should start early. Korea is also very hot in the summer, expect temperatures in the 90's (30's C) and humidity above 50%. Bring water and snacks, snacks are important, I found that out the hard way.

You can take a taxi or a bus to any of the four trails. To take the Eorimok or Yeongsil trails go to the Jeju city Bus terminal on the north side of the island and take a bus to Jungmun. Ask someone at your hostel or hotel to write it in Korean for you and just hand the paper to the lady behind the window. They will direct you to the proper bus, expect to pay about 2,000 won which is about $2. To get to Seongpanak go to the Jeju City Bus Terminal and get a ticket for Seogwipo and get off at the Seongpanak stop.

Gotjawal

Gotjawal is an oreum near Mt. Halla that I did not get the chance to visit, but have planned for my next visit to the island. It is 8.1 km and the hike is 4 hours up and 4 hours down. Inside the crater are plants that can only be seen on Jeju-do. The plants grow out of the volcanic rock. The climate is mild inside the crater, which is a nice break from the oppressive heat. To get there go to Jeju CIty Bus Terminal and take the bus bound for Beonyeong-ro or Pyoseon, get off at the Seonheul 2-ri Entrance and you must walk for 10 minutes to the entrance of Geomunoreum. It is closed on the first Tuesday of every month and you must make a reservation 2 days in advance, so ask at the front desk of your hostel or hotel.

Hallim Park was built in 1971 by Song Bong-kyu. He purchased barren land and brought in soil to turn the land into a beautiful park. There are two caves under the park that were opened in 1983. There is also a folk village that was built in 1987. There are rock garden, a bird house, a subtropical garden, Bonsai garden, water garden, a bird house and a Palm Tree avenue. I went as a part of a tour, but you can get there by bus, it is about 33 km from Jeju City.

Manjangul was awesome! It is a lava tube located on the eastern side of the island and you can take a bus there from the Jeju City Bus Terminal to the cave. However, be warned that it is about a 2 km walk from the bus stop up a hill. My brochure said there was a shuttle, but I did not come across one. The entrance fee is only 2,000 won as of July 2010 and it is open every day 9am to 6pm. It is wet inside, so wear sneakers and I started to get cold after a while so it might be wise to bring a light jacket or sweater.

When you get to the cave you walk down a long flight of stairs and you can feel the temperature drop with each step. There are 7.4 km of caves, but only about 1.4 is open to the public. There are several different lava formations and everything is lit up with signs in English and Korean to describe the phenomena. There is a lava pillar at the end of the open section that is the tallest in the world at 7.6 meters.

Sunrise peak is not for the faint of heart. As is typical on Korean mountains there are stairs leading to the top. It took about 25 minutes to climb to the top. Even at 6am it is hot and muggy, but the view at the top was worth the climb. There is a resting spot about halfway up if you get tired. The park opens one hour before sunrise (google the exact time) until 6pm and is 2,000 won or about $2.

The peak has many geological formations that would intrigue any casual observer, but are particularly interesting to geologists. The peak was formed by a Surtseyan- type volcanic eruption that inly happens in shallow seas. There are visible tuff layers of ask and basaltic clasts that have hardened. The top is a bowl shaped crater that unfortunately you cannot walk on but it provides a spectacular view at sunrise over the background of the blue waters surrounding the island. There is also a grotto dug by the Japanese visible from the right side of the crater that was dug during WWII.

Next to the crater is Umutgae Beach where the Haenyeo still dive for shell fish. The Haenyeo used to be the backbone of the economy on Jeju-do. These are women divers who dive without air tanks to over 10 meters deep. Next to Sunrise Peak is the House of Women Divers and you can see demonstrations if you arrive early in the morning. If you get back on the bus and get off at Jeju Haenyeo Anti-Japanese Movement Memorial Tower (toward Jeju CIty) there is a museum dedicated to these women. The entrance fee is 1,100 won or about $1. The hours are 9am to 6pm and it is closed the first Monday of every month.

Cheonjeyeon Falls are a three tiered falls. There are rare plants in the park called solipnan or Skeleton Fork ferns. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions on the island. At the park is a bridge called Seonimgyo Bridge with 7 nymphs carved on each side.

Jusangjeolli is amazing. The cliffs are geometric rock formations that were formed by the lava erupting from Mt. Halla hitting the sea of Jungmun. Watching the waves hit the hexagonal shaped rock formations is incredible. Again, I went there as a part of a tour, but it is near Seogwhipo and you can take the bus there. I highly recommend visiting this site if only for the amazing pictures.

These falls are less famous than the Cheonjeyeon falls. In fact when I arrived I thought they were closed. I walked down the street, following the signs and came upon a hotel that was under renovations, and the paths were overgrown. I heard voices, though so I continued on down past an abandoned green house. But I was rewarded with a beautiful view of the falls, the only to empty into the ocean in Asia.

Unlike Cheonjeyeon Falls you can actually walk down and get into the water if you are so inclined. I did not as it was rainy that day, but I walked around the rocks and got some great shots with the falls, and a nice Korean family was kind enough to take my picture. Unfortunately, the tourists have left a lot of trash behind and there are roach like bugs everywhere. If you are in the area, I recommend visiting these falls.

Sanbangulsa is located on the southwestern part of the island. It is another oreum created when Mt. Halla erupted. What is special about this location is the Buddhist cave located halfway up the mountain. You can also view Dragon's Head here. 

When you arrive at the park it is 2,000 won to get in. The first thing you see as you climb the steps is the giant gold Buddha. To the left of the statue is a set of steps leading up to the Buddhist grotto. I am not particularly religious, and maybe it was the climb or lack of snacks I brought on my trip, but I felt so relieved to see the small Buddha statue inside the cave that I cried. It was beautiful to see and unfortunately the pictures don't do it justice.

When you reach the top of the steps there are two monks sitting there inviting you drink the medicinal waters that flow at a constant rate from the walls of the cave. I have drank the waters of several medicinal Buddhas, but this is one I will never forget. This is a highly recommended stop for anyone interested in Buddhism or just to see something wonderful. I took a taxi, but there is a bus you can take from Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal.

Yakcheonsa is the largest Buddhist Temple in Asia. Koreans take pride in having the largest, longest, tallest etc of everything and this temple was built for the express purpose of being the largest. The grounds are amazing, there are Jeju orange trees everywhere and fountains and Koi ponds. While you are in Jeju make sure you try a Jeju orange, they're delicious.

The temple itself is amazing. Everything is painted brightly similar to most Buddhist temples. There are large dragons on the pillars inside the temple and frescoes everywhere depicting different Buddhist stories. On the outside of the temple there are several panels depicting the life of Siddhartha, the first Buddha.

I went as a part of a tour, but you can visit the temple by taking a bus from either bus terminal on the island. Ask the front desk of your hostel or hotel for more information. If you are interested in a tour, I recommend Yeha tours. They have an English speaking tour guide and taking a tour bus is easier than working out how to get from one sight to the next. It was a little pricey, but it included lunch and we spent the entire day sightseeing.

There are several beaches on the island. There are white sand beaches and black sand beaches. The black sand comes from the volcanic rock that you will see everywhere on the beach. I was a little disappointed that the sand wasn't actually black, but more of a muddy brown color. If you go to one of the black sand beaches you should wear water socks in the sea as there are lava rocks jutting out everywhere.

The waves around the island aren't very big, so if you like to surf this is probably not where you should head. However, there are water sports everywhere. You can rent jet skis or go out on a boat with a banana raft if you have a big group.

I stayed on the north side of the island so I went to Hamdeok beach and Iho beach. Iho is a black sand beach. There are makeshift restaurants on Iho beach where you can taste fresh raw seafood that was probably caught that day. be warned though, Korean food is meant to be shared so one plate will feed a whole table. You will have to decide on one or possibly two items if you are traveling with 4 or more people. At night they bring tables out onto the beach and you can watch the sun set over the sea which is quite beautiful.

Hamdeok beach offers a far superior vista, but there is only one restaurant there. It's in a cove, with a rocky mini cliff on one side that leads to water sports and on the other is a large hill. There is a sand bar in the middle that is visible when the tide is going out. I preferred this beach for swimming and sunbathing. There is a bathroom across the street from the beach.

At Iho beach there is a bathroom, but again wear flip flops as there is water and sand everywhere on the floor. It's kind of gross by American standards, but if you are prepared you will be fine. Bring tissues as the toilet paper will run out early and no one seems to come fill the dispensers. Also bring wet wipes and anti bacterial gel. In Korea there is usually a bar of soap that everyone uses, so if that grosses you out, use the gel. You will also need to take a taxi to Iho. I tried taking the bus, not realizing it was a 2 km walk from the stop to the beach. Luckily a cab driver saw me and picked me up.

Korea is generally very safe, but during tourist season you should be careful with your belongings. A friend of mine had everything stolen while he was at the beach. This is not common, but it does happen, so if your hotel or hostel has a safe you should use it.

There are other lovely beaches on the south and west sides of the island. There are also smaller satellite islands that have amazing beaches. Get a map at the airport and utilize your front desk, Koreans are extremely helpful. I was waiting for a bus and showed the map to some older people who put me on the right bus, told me where to get off and which bus to take next and they didn't speak any English. They will do anything they can to assist you, its quite nice.

Jeju island is littered with phallic symbols. You will see little statues everywhere that look like a phallus with a face. The legend is that there was once a young virgin who lived on the island and was in love with a fisherman. One day he went out to sea and died. She was so distraught that she flung her virgin body into the sea. Then the fishermen in town stopped catching anything. One day a man was facing the ocean while urinating. The next day the fish came back. Locals believed that the sight of the penis was enough to placate the young virgin who lost her life without ever knowing the love of a man. To honor her and keep the fish coming back there are statues everywhere in the shape of a phallus to keep her spirit happy.

So it is no coincidence that there are not one, but two sex museums on the island. I visited the most provocative called Loveland. At the park you can view all kinds of statues of different sexual positions, fetishes and even some themed statues. (The US statue is of a woman and man dressed in civil war era clothing.) There is a museum where you can purchase different sex themed novelty items. I purchased a pillow shaped like breasts. You will see a lot of old women and businessmen giggling at everything on display. Some is tasteful and some is raunchy, but that is to be expected when you visit a place called Loveland.

I went at night. All of the statues are artfully lit and I felt that it wouldn't have been the same during the day. It is open until midnight. Visit the website to see if it is for you and to get directions, though I highly recommend a visit. http://www.jejuloveland.com/html/eng.html

There is much more to see and do on Jeju-do. If you plan to see all of the above please note that I took a tour one day and visited five sights on that tour. Second, if you want to climb any of the peaks, oreums or mountains on the island you should allow 1/2 to a whole day for each. I spent five days there and I still didn't get to see everything. Once you are in Korea there are several ways to visit the island. You can fly from any airport directly to Jeju-do for around $100. There are also several ferries you can take. There is an overnight ferry from Incheon to Jeju, one from Mokpo which is about 4-6 hours, and one from Busan. The ferry from Busan is either overnight or you can take the high speed boat and get there in 3 hours. Unless you really like boats its the same price to just fly.

I stayed in a hostel for $20 per day, but the island offers a wide range of accommodations to fit any budget. Google is a traveler's best friend and you will find everything you need to have a great trip if you search well. Enjoy your trip!